Cindy

Mid-Market – Swallows and Sycamores

 Posted by on August 8, 2011
Aug 082011
 
Mid Market – San Francisco
Swallows and Sycamores
by Amber Hasselbring
7th and Market

Mid Market area has long had a reputation for being a wasteland.  Storefronts boarded up, tourists as well as locals, finding a way around this section of Market, without actually walking down it, a veritable waste land in the middle of a vibrant city.

For years politicians, concerned citizens and property owners have tried to figure a way to revitalize the area.  The artists have decided to use the area as a canvas and wait for the rest of the world to catch up.

The SF Arts Commission, for a few years now has been sponsoring Art in Storefronts around town, and the mid market area is an area they work hard to spotlight.  Most of the art is, in fact, in storefronts, making it almost impossible to photograph.  The windows are often barred, or the glare just makes for reflection and no way for me to bring you the actual art.  However, some of the pieces are outside windows and a tad more accessible.

The above piece is about the metamorphosis of the western tiger swallowtail butterfly and its relationship to the sycamore trees planted along Market Street.

According to Amber’s website: The London plane is in the sycamore family, a hybrid between the oriental plane (Platanus orientalis) and the American sycamore (Platanus occidentalis). Today, as a result of the presence of this street tree, the western tiger swallowtail butterfly (Papilio rutulus) can be seen flying along Market Street. In early spring and late summer, western tiger swallowtail females fly among the corridor of sycamore trees, chemically sensing the larval food plant and laying eggs. The males fly low to mud puddles, where they extract salts to use for making sperm.

This mural, entitled Imagine by Juana Alicia Araiza was right next to Swallows and Sycamores.  Araiza is a talented artist and teacher at Berkeley City College.

UPDATE – These murals are no longer available – 6/2012

Alamo Square

 Posted by on August 7, 2011
Aug 072011
 
Alamo Square – San Francisco
Alamo Square is surrounded by Victorian Houses, and the famous “painted ladies” photograph that is quintessentially San Francisco, to say nothing of the fact that it’s image is probably the number one selling postcard.  I see no point in posting that picture, you have seen it.  I even hesitate to discuss victorians on this blog, because frankly there are so many experts and so many people out there that know so much more than I that I feel completely inadequate in even approaching this subject.
One of my dearest and oldest friends Beach Alexander has written the ultimate book San Francisco,  Building the Dream City  It took Beach well over 20 years to finish the book, only about 5 years before he passed away.  This is why I hesitate to even begin this subject here.
I am doing this because I want you to know that the entire area is filled with wonderful old victorians, not just those 5 in the postcard, and should you get to our fair city, and have the time to do more than drive by and point and shoot, I encourage you to park the car, get off the bus, get out of the taxi, and stroll, stroll, stroll.
Chateau Tivoli Bed and Breakfast

SOMA – Tile Buildings

 Posted by on August 6, 2011
Aug 062011
 
SOMA San Francisco
1235 Mission Street at 8th
This building houses the Department of Human Resources offices.
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From the Architect and Engineer Magazine of 1928:
 Bliss and Fairweather’s building for Mangrum and Otter Inc…is being favorably commented on for the somewhat daring, but nonetheless effectual, architectural treatment in glazed color tile…Admittedly, it was somewhat of a task to work out a design that would make a dignified front in bright colors.  The moorish type was chosen as best suited for such a treatment, and the effect is indeed pleasing.
Mangrum and Otter was a wholesaler of tiles, stoves and mantels, as well as fireplace and kitchen accessories for commercial and institutional use.  Founded in 1887 in San Jose by A.S. Mangrum, the company moved its headquarters to San Francisco in 1895, occupying a number of locations prior to erecting this building in the late 1920’s.  The flamboyant facade, to date of unknown origin, may well have been a response to the newly completed Howden Building across the bay in Oakland.
I contacted Riley Doty, a local expert on all things tile, and he informed me that this is one of the few tile buildings in the San Francisco Bay Area, that know one knows anything about.  The maker of the tiles remain unknown.
The entry tiles of the Howden building can be seen at Oakland Daily Photo or a few other photos can be seen here.

UN Plaza

 Posted by on August 5, 2011
Aug 052011
 
Civic Center – San Francisco
United Nations Plaza

United Nations Plaza is an area off of Market Street with a walkable corridor straight to Civic Center, which includes City Hall and Herbst Theatre.  The United Nations Charter was signed in the War Memorial Veterans Building’s Herbst Theatre in 1945, leading to the creation of the United Nations.

According to Wikipedia “Civic Center has a seedy, run-down, high crime reputation and appearance with large amounts of Homeless encampments which has prevented it from attracting the large amounts of tourists seen in other areas of the city. Despite repeated redevelopment of Civic Center over the years aimed primarily at discouraging the homeless from camping there, large amounts of homeless continue to camp and loiter in the area.”  Sadly, this is true.

The architecture of the Plaza itself is really beautiful.  It was designed by world famous Lawrence Halprin in the 1970s.  It is lined with granite columns engraved with a particular year and the countries that were inducted into the U.N. during that year.  On the walkway are engraved sayings promoting peace over war, and there is of course, the ubiquitous water feature.

Sadly, none of this beauty has kept the less fortunate from making it a play ground and scaring others away.

Looking from the Water fountain towards City Hall
Looking Back towards Market Street
It was a beautiful day and really good music could be heard for blocks.  These fellas,  Machaiara,  (apparently are a Nonprofit, Non Denominational Christian Music Outreach & Support Ministry), were there to convert the onlookers.  Not sure if it is proper to mix church and state, but I can promise everyone was enjoying their music.

The Tenderloin – Humming With Life

 Posted by on August 4, 2011
Aug 042011
 
The Tenderloin – San Francisco
Hyde and Golden Gate
This is panel one of a new mural on the U.S. Postal Service office building  at the corner of Hyde and Golden Gate.  It was done by Johanna Poethig, whose work we saw in The Tenderloin National Forest and Tutubi Plaza.  This mural is titled humming with life.  If you hop over to her blog. where she has posted lots of pictures of the activities that took place around her while she was installing this blog you get a sense of how apt the title its.

This is directly from her blog – “Humming With Life”, the title of this mural is an understatement.  The Post Office building at the corner of Hyde and Golden Gate is a magnet for drug dealers, crack addicts and homeless folks looking for a spot to lie down.  The Tenderloin has long been the neighborhood that offers services to the down and out so this is where they live  with the vibrant mix of cultures and community in the North of Market of downtown San Francisco. The Civic Center Post Office does not sell stamps or send mail.  It has endless rows of post office boxes for people without permanent addresses.”

She has truly added a bright spot in a rather sorry part of town.

Update: The Post Office is slated for demolition.  

SOMA – Murals on 6th

 Posted by on August 3, 2011
Aug 032011
 
6th Street Corridor – San Francisco
6th and Minna Streets

6th Street in San Francisco is not the nicest street in the city.  Its overabundance of SRO’s crack dealers, and soup kitchens make it a street many people avoid.  I took all these shots while wandering by myself, however, it was broad daylight.  The point is, like any city, know your surroundings and keep your eyes open, and life is not all that scary.

This mural was painted in 1998 by Precita Eyes.  The designer and painter, specifically was William Boler Jr.

On the other side of the alley are these three little gems.

SOMA – Gordon Street Murals

 Posted by on August 2, 2011
Aug 022011
 
SOMA – San Francisco

This mural is on Gordon Street, South of Market.  Gordon is a dingy dead end alley off of Harrison Streets between 8th and 9th.  It is hard to find, and you would have no reason to even be on the alley, but it was a quiet Sunday and no cars or buses were blocking the view which is how I spied it.  The mural is titled Zen and is by Kristine Brandt.  Kristine studied at the Academy of Art University and the Florence Academy of Art.  What I really loved is the incorporation of the mural right onto the sidewalk.

This mural is right next to the one above.  It is by Katya Kahn (2011)

Katya Kahn has always sought to engage her community creatively, whether through designing, teaching, or mural painting. In her mural projects especially, Katya values the input of others to ensure the creation of a piece that resonates with the public. Katya has painted significant murals in San Francisco, San Diego, and Russia.

Both of these murals were partially funded by the SFAC StreetSmarts program.

SOMA -Art that Disappears when Buildings Do

 Posted by on August 1, 2011
Aug 012011
 
SOMA – San Francisco
260 Fifth Street at Clementina

This sign is an anathema to me for several reasons.  While hard to read, it states that this building will be demolished and a 9 story building will be put up in its place. Although not highly ornamented, it does have some lovely features. When I see old buildings with history like this arbitrarily being tossed by the wayside so that a non-descript highrise can be built, it makes my blood boil.

The unique architecture of any city is what makes it stand out, the more that we have nondescript, inexpensive highrises built around the world, our cities begin to more and more look like each other and we loose our reason to be tourists in other lands.
The other problem is this.
This mural is painted on the side of the building.  It was painted in 1986 by David Wehrle. In San Francisco, the law requires that the original artist of any mural that is about to be destroyed must be notified.  Apparently Mr. Wherle and the SF Arts Commission found no significant reason that the mural should remain, so it will be destroyed during the demolition.  So here are the photos of the entire thing before that happens.
 Update: This building was torn down July of 2012.  This picture was taken on July 7th, 2012

The Tenderloin – 20,000 Missing Seats

 Posted by on July 31, 2011
Jul 312011
 
The Tenderloin – Market Street Junction – San Francisco
6th -Taylor – Market Street

This fascinating piece is on the back side of Show Dogs Hot Dog Stand at the corners of 6th Street, Taylor and Market.

The mural is an homage to those movie and performance art theaters (Strand, Unique, Embassy, Rialto, Granada, Regal, Imperia, Pantages, Tivoli, Hub, State, Egyptian, etc) that once graced this area of Market Street prior to the 1906 earthquake and up into the 1950’s.  It is part of the S.F. Arts Commission 2011 Art in Store Fronts Project.

The artist is Rafael Landea an Argentinean artist who moved to San Francisco in 2002. He earned his MFA in Painting and Set Design from the University of La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Obviously his passion for set design and theater was the impetus for this mural.

Jul 302011
 
Bears Around San Francisco

A while back I was walking in my own neighborhood, SOMA,  (this is Berwick and Heron off of Harrison or 8th Streets) and in this little alley I came across this great big bear.

Well as I was wandering The Tenderloin Forest, I came across this guy

I knew I had seen this work before and was happy to see another wonderful character.  Then last week I was driving through the intersection of Market and 6th Street and what do I see?

The artist is Chad Hasegawa.  He was born in Hawaii and has quite a repertoire.  This excerpt is from an interview he did with Blackbook Art Magazine.

“Grizzly bears are just something I enjoy painting and I really enjoy painting them big. They represent an outsider coming into a tamed city of walls all the way from nature. They represent the West and a lot of other things, especially in San Francisco. The way I see it, they came here first. And they probably came here for the same reasons we came here. San Francisco is an amazing place and in this 7×7 mile radius there is a lot going on here with the weather, the hills, the water, and the fog. I mean, there were 10,000 grizzly bears that used to live here and were forced to get along and agree with one another and stand together, and they were so stoked to be here that they had to be sucka free and didn’t mind living so close together. Or there were some bears that just didn’t get it and were forced to leave or left here on their own, just like us. ”

 

 

SOMA – Inner City Home and Truth

 Posted by on July 29, 2011
Jul 292011
 
SOMA and Market Street Areas of San Francisco

This is by Ricardo Gouveia, a Portuguese artist residing in San Francisco.  From 1984-2002, Rigo used the last two digits of the current year as part of his name (in this case Rigo94) , finally settling upon “23″ in 2003.  As part of TODCO’s Inner City Arts Program, Rigo worked with Sixth Street hotel tenants to create this powerful statement of community identity, painted on the Knox SRO and visible for miles.   TODCO Group is a community-based housing/community development nonprofit corporation for San Francisco’s South of Market Neighborhood.

Sixth street is one of the rougher streets in the city and the work that TODCO does is really very special.

This is also by Rigo.  The “Truth” mural is dedicated to Robert King Wilkerson. After 32 years of incarceration, 29 of which were spent in CCR (Closed Cell Restriction)—a minimum of 23 hours a day inside a 6 x 9 x 12-foot cell—King’s conviction was overturned in 2001. Rigo 23 developed a friendship with King following his release.  The painting is on the Odd Fellows Building on Market Street.

Rigo’s is not just a muralist, his wonderful mosaic work can be seen here.  His work is all over San Francisco.

SOMA – Frisco’s Wild Side

 Posted by on July 28, 2011
Jul 282011
 
SOMA – San Francisco
Langton between Folsom and Harrison

This newly restored mural is on Langton Street between Folsom and Harrison in the South of Market area. Originally painted in 1995 by Precita Eyes it is called “Frisco’s Wild Side”.  It took more than 70 participants to plan and paint depictions of endangered species in North America. The animals are found in fantastical settings of ancient civilizations and modern industrialization interwoven with and sometimes battling the animals’ natural habitats.

San Francisco residents and local school children helped to paint and create tile mosaics that were then embedded into the concrete relief elements that run the bottom length of the mural.

The mural sits on the back side of Maltby Electrical and this is their warehouse entrance.  Between the tagging and the damage done by the trucks the mural had become extremely sad and tired.   With money from Maltby Electric and lots of work from the local neighborhood the mural was restored and is a point of pride for the people that live on the street.

Despite it’s atrocious name – no local would ever call San Francisco “Frisco”, it is a wonderful mural.

 

Hayes Valley – Ethereal Art

 Posted by on July 27, 2011
Jul 272011
 
Hayes Valley – San Francisco

Hayes Valley came to prominence when film director Erich von Stroheim chose the corner of Hayes and Laguna for the filming of his 1924 film “Greed.” His affections were for a 19th-century Victorian that had been built in the early 1880s by Col. Michael Hayes as an amusement pavilion, though word has it Hayes constructed the building to lure an extension of the streetcar line to Hayes Valley. The building survived the 1906 earthquake and fire and at the time of filming was occupied only on the ground floor, by a French laundry and the Hayes Valley Pharmacy, which remained in business until the 1960s. Stroheim created signs for a dentist’s office and a photographer’s workplace for the movie, which fooled some locals into believing they were real. The film included numerous shots from the top floor of the building looking down on Hayes Valley. He also used 595-597 Hayes, a building that acted as a storeroom in the 1920s, as the site of the saloon in the film.

In the 1950’s the Central Freeway was built over the top of the neighborhood and Hayes Valley quickly descended into a rough neighborhood that remained a spot for ladies and gentlemen of the night well into the 1990’s.   The 1989 earthquake brought so much destruction to the Central Freeway that they tore it down.  What evolved was a neighborhood, replete with wonderful individual (read non-chain) stores and lots and lots of excellent restaurants.  Wikipedia even calls it a “fashionable” neighborhood.

In the heart of the area is Patricia’s Green (in memory of neighborhood activist Patricia Walkup), also called Hayes Green.  It runs the length of Octavia, between Hayes and Fell.

The Green is the sight of ever rotating art installations.    I ran into the little impromptu piece on the sidewalk of the Green.

It was tagged Nik Larsen 7/7/11.  I took the photo on the 22nd of July.  It is chalk, and I was amazed it still was in such good shape.  It is titled Violet Eclipse Mechanics.  What a wonderful ethereal piece of art, that proves you must always keep your eyes open.

Nik writes a blog Chalkvisions if you want to check out other things he has done around town.

Just off the green is this piece by Ben Eine of London, a fun interview with him can be read here.

Hayes Valley – Pop Up Art

 Posted by on July 26, 2011
Jul 262011
 
Hayes Valley – San Francisco

I had the privilege of catching Andy Vogt in the process of making this piece.  We chatted for awhile, as he worked putting lath into the chain link fence.  This space surrounds a temporary landing spot for the Museum of Craft and Art.  The museum is presently in a storage unit plunked down on the corner of Hayes and Octavia.    The exhibit around the museum will run through October of 2011 and is entitled Place Making.  The museum invited three artists and architects to design installations based on the sites impermanent condition with architectural themes consisting of proxy, transparency, layering and light.

Andy was the creator of the first of these installations.  He is a San Francisco based artist with a BFA from Carnegie Mellon.  His biggest constraint was putting sculptural elements into this space.  Lath is typically no more than four feet long, but Andy was working with many pieces that were much shorter. Then he had the width and height of the chain link panels which was already installed before he began work.  His work is really rather phenomenal, there is such an earthy quality to working with reclaimed lath, it has such wonderful different tones and age marks, making many personalities blend into one installation.

His website has photos of other installations he has done.

This installation is not longer available for viewing.

 

Chinatown Architecture

 Posted by on July 25, 2011
Jul 252011
 
15 Waverly Place
Chinatown – San Francisco

The Marble plaque on this wall reads:
Chinese Baptist Church

Property of the

American Baptist Home
Mission Society of NY
Built 1888 Destroyed 1906
Rebuilt 1908

When Chinese students were not permitted to attend the city’s public schools, the Church offered day school for children, and night school for adults. Today it offers English language classes and an outreach program to immigrants.
After the 1906 earthquake, many buildings in San Francisco were built of brick, mainly because people feared fire more than shaking.  This of course was foolhardy as brick does not stand up to earthquakes and to continue to work as public buildings these all have been retrofitted.  What I love about this building is the “clinker brick”.
Wikipedia describes these thusly:  Clinkers are burnt under temperatures so high that the pores of the fuel property are closed by the beginning sinter process. Thus they are considerably denser and therefore heavier than regular bricks. Clinkers hardly take up water and are very resistant.  In early brick firing kilns, the surface of the bricks that were too close to the fire changed into the volcanic textures and darker/purplish colors. They were often discarded, but around 1900, these bricks were discovered by architects to be usable, distinctive and charming in architectural detailing, adding the earthy quality favored by Arts & Crafts style designers.
There is also a wonderful stain glass piece in this church that I had to photograph from the outside, as I was unable to get into the church.

Art Nouveau in Chinatown

 Posted by on July 24, 2011
Jul 242011
 
720 Kearny Street
Chinatown, San Francisco

The first overseas office of the Sing Tao Daily was opened in San Francisco in 1975.  The parent company of the Sing Tao Daily, the Sing Tao Newspaper Group Limited, was founded in 1938 and is based in Hong Kong.  It has one of the longest publishing histories among the Chinese newspapers in Hong Kong.

This amazing Art Nouveau building designed by Luigi Mastropasqua in 1907, is at the corner of Commercial and Kearny Streets in Chinatown. Mastropasqua is probably more famous for designing Julius’ Castle on San Francisco’s Telegraph Hill.

Commercial Street is one of the oldest thoroughfares in San Francisco, dating back to 1847. At that time Commercial Street was but two and a half short blocks—from Dupont (now Grant Avenue) to the old waterfront just past Montgomery (where Leidesdorff Street now is.) Its name derives from the fact that it was early San Francisco’s most prominent commercial street.

Commercial has a very colorful history, serving off and as a red light district of San Francisco in the Barbary Coast days.

This street also houses my favorite restaurant in Chinatown – City View Dim Sum Restaurant at 622 Commercial.

Jul 232011
 
Chinatown
940 Washington Street, San Francisco

I love the architecture that you find in Chinatown.  I actually think, more because of the history than the actual styles.  This brick building with its’ beautiful tile arched entry is one of my favorites.  It is the Gum Moon Womens Residence.  It has a nice piece of marble with the inscription.

Oriental Home and School
of the WHMS of
The ME Church
This building’s history begins in 1870.  The history of the Chinese immigration in the United States is not a pretty one, and this is standing testament to the people that did care.  The Reverend and Mrs. Otis Gibson had become aware of the “mui tsai”, girls in bondage.  He wanted to do something to help.  With twelve other women they formed the Womens Missionary Society of the Pacific Coast with the mission “to elevate and save heathen women, especially those on these shores, and to raise funds for this work”.  A full account of the Society can be found in a published article by Jeffrey Staley.  The building itself was built after the 1906 earthquake and was designed by Julia Morgan.

 

Chinatown’s Dragon Mural and More

 Posted by on July 22, 2011
Jul 222011
 
Chinatown – San Francisco
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Chinatown is chock a block with murals, and this is one of my favorites.  It is titled Dragons Gate and is by Wes Wong and Lost One.  According to their website Fresh Paint they are “a San Francisco based mural painting company offering a fresh take on aerosol wall painting.”  They are young, and their work shows that link from youth based tagging to professional mural execution”

You can find Dragon’s Gate on the corner of Trenton and Pacific Avenue.

This mural was sponsored in part by SFAC StreetSmArts Program.

Wentworth Street between Jackson and Washington presently holds these two murals.  The first is here thanks to the Art in Store Fronts Project (a San Francisco Arts Commission Program) and is painted by Robert Minervini.  Robert received his MFA from the San Francisco Arts Institute in 2009 and lives in San Francisco.  His works can be seen on his own website.  This mural is entitled “If these Walls Could Talk” and was done in collaboration with Adopt-An-Alleyway youth volunteers. It is a montage of images generated by interviews with local residents and the history of Wentworth Street.
This is also on Wentworth alley, painted by Adopt-An-Alleyway youths. It is a depiction of the “living room of Chinatown” Portsmouth Square.

The mission of the Adopt-An-Alleyway (AAA) Youth Project is to have high school students monitor and organize clean-ups to beautify Chinatown’s forty-one (41) alleyways, provide services to the Chinatown community, and to help these youth develop leadership skills.

They also run an Chinatown Alleyway’s Tour.

Chinatown has three times more alleys than streets and they all are worth exploring.  The locals have done an amazing job in cleaning up the alleys and giving tourists a reason to go down them, with markers, history walks and little finds like this.  By the way, Wentworth Street is nicknamed Salty Fish Alley because of the many dried seafood stores that filled it in the early 1900’s.

 

Phone Company Building

 Posted by on July 21, 2011
Jul 212011
 

743 Washington Street
Chinatown

San Francisco’s Chinatown  is the oldest Chinatown in North America and the largest Chinese community outside Asia. Established in the 1840s, It plays an extremely important part in the history of San Francisco and the history of the Chinese diaspora. Chinatown is the most densely populated neighborhood in the city and one of the most densely populated neighborhoods in the United States. It is also one of the more working class neighborhoods of San Francisco.  Chinatown has more visitors annually than the Golden Gate Bridge.

The Chinese Telephone Exchange sits at 793 Washington. In 1891, the first public telephone pay station was installed in Chinatown. In 1894, a small switchboard was set up to serve the patrons of the phone system. People were often asked for by name rather than by number, so telephone operators had to memorize and know each patron by name. This made telephone numbers unnecessary, which was important since the Chinatown community felt it was rude to refer to people by numbers. Operators also knew the address and occupations of patrons so they could distinguish between two people with the same name. In addition, they had to speak five Chinese dialects as well as English.

The exchange was destroyed by the 1906 earthquake, but was rebuilt, and remained in operation until it closed in 1949.

 

Technology changed, and switchboards were no longer needed. The Bank of Canton bought and restored the building in 1960.

Chinatown has an incredibly rich history and there are hundreds of books out there about it, but two that I find especially interesting are: “The Barbary Plague” by Marilyn Chase and “Genthe’s Photographs of San Francisco’s Old Chinatown” by Arnold Genthe and John Kuo Wei Tchen.

 

Chinatown Murals

 Posted by on July 20, 2011
Jul 202011
 
Chinatown – San Francisco
Stockton and Pacific

This mural is also on the Ping Yuen Housing Project.  This is the Stockton Street Side of the building.

Painted by Darryl Mar in 1999.  Mar is a graduate of UC Irvine.  He went on to get a masters in Asian American Studies from UCLA.  Mr. Mar was aided by Darren Acoba, Joyce Lu and Tonia Chen.  It is in memory of Sing Kan Mah and  those who have struggled to make America their home.
Walking further down Stockton Street towards the tunnel you will find this mural on the Victory Memorial Hall it was erected by the China War Relief Association of America and painted by Amy Nelder.
The Center sign reads: “Ten Miles of Track, Laid in One Day, April 28, 1869”
The waving banner reads “On April 28th 1869, a team of 848 Chinese railroad workers, using only hand  tools, set a record laying more than 10 miles of track in just 12 hours. For the entire year of 1868 the Central Pacific Railway laid only 350 miles of track – about one mile a day.  Chinese immigrants, the overwhelming majority of whom (over 90%) came from Gwang Chou Province, constituted about 86% of the Central Pacific workforce, more than 12,000 of out of 14,00 workers.”

According to Wendy’s website she “comes from a rich San Francisco tradition. Her grandfather, Al Nelder, was the revered former Chief of Police for San Francisco and her mother, Wendy, is the former president of the San Francisco Board of Supervisors. She continues that spirit of public service by being one of only 18 fulltime forensic artists in the United States as the forensic artist for the San Francisco Police Department.”

As you can see above, the Chinese were instrumental in building the railroads throughout the west.  It is a piece of our history fraught with both the good and the bad.  If you are interested in reading further about it I suggest checking out the following book.  “Nothing Like it in the World” by Stephen E. Ambrose, I know there are hundreds others, but his makes for wonderful reading about the entire railroad history in the west.

Chinatown – 8 Immortals

 Posted by on July 19, 2011
Jul 192011
 
Chinatown – San Francisco
 711 Pacific
Bok Sen  – Eight Immortals
I was stopped short by this set of murals.  The style is so obviously asian and yet you just don’t see that style outside of the asian world when it comes to murals.  This is the front of the Ping Yuen Public Housing Project on the corner of Stockton and Pacific in San Francisco.  The housing project was built in 1952, and designed by Architect Henry Temple Howard.  Howard was a graduate of UC Berkeley and the Ecole de Beaux Arts.  After a stint with his father, architect John Glen Howard, he went to work for Blakewell and Brown, the architects of Coit Tower.  He worked with landscape architect Mark Daniels on this project.

Ping Yuen has three buildings, east, middle and west.  There are playgrounds in the back and small landscaped areas for sitting.  Despite being surrounded by high fences and lots of bars on the windows most people that live there consider it a very safe place to live.

This particular wall is outside of the walls, which is how it got tagged.  These murals have a very interesting story.  They were done by Josie Grant.  The original mural, painted in 1979 depicted representations of classic tai chi poses.  The city had hired a contractor to seal the walls after some roof damage, the contractor white-washed over the murals.  In 1995, the city hired Josie again to put up new murals.  She did not want to recreate the original murals, so this is what she did, apparently with some acrimony from some of the tenants.  There was considerable discussion about the fact that she was not Asian, and that these aren’t what people expected.  I think they are wonderful, and so very different than what is around town.
The title of these murals is Bok Sen – 8 Immortals.  All these shots were taken through the bars of the fence that surrounds the property.

Pepe Ozan’s Invocation

 Posted by on July 18, 2011
Jul 182011
 
Potrero Hill – San Francisco

This sculpture is located at the corner of Bayshore Blvd, Cesar Chavez and 26th Street, just to the side of Highway 101. Though it was installed in 2004, to mark the beginning of a new bike path, they just started construction on said path this month.

The sculptor, Pepe Ozan, stated that the piece represents an Eagle-Warrior, an institution that survived all of Mesoamerica’s civilizations throughout 2000 years until the arrival of the Conquistadors. The Eagle-Warriors were a corps of elite who served as leaders in religious ceremonies as well as on the battlefield.

The plaque on this sculpture reads “Presented to Honor the Indigenous Heritage of This Region”

The piece was part of the SFAC 2006-07 budget and cost $14,000.

Pepe Ozan Eagle Warrior

Pepe Ozan (1940-2013)  was an Argentinian sculptor that was very active with Burning Man.

From the Burning Man Blog:

One of Pepe’s lingam sculptures was first burned at Burning Man in 1993, and he created “Pepe’s Tower” each year after that until 2000. In Burning Man’s early years in the Black Rock Desert, the ritual burning of “Pepe’s Tower” on Friday night was traditionally followed by the burning of the Man the next evening. The Friday night ritual became more elaborate each year, and in 1996 it was renamed “The Burning Man Opera”.

“Le Nystere de Papa Loko” opera, 1999 (Photo by Tom Pendergast)
Pepe’s elaborate operas included “The Arrival of Empress Zoe” (1996), “The Daughters of Ishtar” (1997), “The Temple of Rudra” (1998), “Le Mystere De Papa Loko” (1999), “The Thaur-Taurs of Atlan” (2000), and “Ark of the Nereids” (2002), which featured a 35′-long mobile sculpture / musical instrument in the form of a Spanish Galleon crossed with a mythical aquatic creature. These epic performances, remembered fondly by so many in our community, would feature over 2,000 dancers and performers – in a true demonstration of radical inclusion, any and all Burners were invited to participate.

Invocation

My office is only 5 blocks from this spot, and I drive by this spot at least 3 times a week. I am not sure if I really have never seen it, or, more likely, the city finally got around to clearing away overgrown trees and shrubs.

I bring this up, not to point out my intense concentration on the road while I drive, but to discuss a problem that the City of San Francisco has with its art collection It has been said that the cities collection is valued at around $90 million dollars and includes over 4,000 items, one of the richest city-owned art collections in the world.

Sadly, management of the collection is so shoddy that the city cannot say for sure how many pieces it owns. Some pieces have been damaged because of lack of maintenance or poor storage; others have disappeared entirely.

The San Francisco Arts Commission is the city agency responsible for the collection. The page of their website that listed the collection shut down recently, with an apology that they were trying to get a better handle on the collection and bring a more complete list to the public.

Since the Civic Arts Collection’s inception in 1932, a full survey of the city’s holdings has never been done. A complete inventory is under way, but until its scheduled completion in late 2012, the city can only guess at the collection’s size.

Approximately 900 pieces are in storage, while the rest are scattered around parks, hospitals, offices, courtrooms and other public city-owned spaces.

The budget to tally, repair and keep an eye on the collection is minimal, and the staff almost non-existent.

What I suspect here is that this particular sculpture was hidden in the local flora, only to be discovered again after the gardeners arrived.

 

SOMA – Meagan Spendlove

 Posted by on July 17, 2011
Jul 172011
 
SOMA – San Francisco

This mural is on the corner of 10th Street and Sheridan in the South of Market Area of San Francisco.  The artist is Meagan Spendlove.  Her website reads “Meagan Spendlove currently works in San Francisco, California as a professional designer, illustrator and project coordinator. Her latest endeavors include yet are not limited to mural project coordination and digital illustration. Over the past twelve years her style has become recognized mainly for its feminine subject matter and organic ingredients. Assorted shaded ethereal women & bright colors surrounded by bold lines, similar to stained glass.”

The bright colors are what caught my eye, otherwise, it is on a very obscure alley and very easy to miss.

This piece was sponsored in part by the SFAC StreetSmArts Program.

Tenderloin – Alcazar Theater

 Posted by on July 16, 2011
Jul 162011
 
Alcazar Theater – Tenderloin – San Francisco

This is the center section of the Alcazar, it is flanked by two matching wings.

In 1976, the Alcazar was awarded the highest rating for architectural significance in a survey of city buildings.   Located at 650 Geary Street, between Jones and Leavenworth in the Tenderloin, it was built in 1917 at a cost of $150,000 as the Islam Temple, Ancient Arabic Order Nobles of the Mystic Shrine. The Shriners, a men’s social and charitable organization of the Freemasons, used the building until 1970. The building was designed by Scottish-born architect Thomas Patterson Ross. The Landmarks Preservation Advisory Board referred to its style as Moorish Byzantine Eclectic, a style inspired by Oriental and Persian architecture.  Some sources indicated that Ross, also a Shriner, was inspired by the Moorish palace of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.

The Shriners’ continued to use the building for meetings and other lodge functions until 1970, when it became the 511-seat Alcazar Theater. The name recalls an historic theater on O’Farrell Street that burned in 1906. A new Alcazar had been built on that site, but was demolished in 1963 to create a parking lot. The Alcazar Theater closed in 1984 but reopened in 1992 after undergoing a controversial rehabilitation.  The garage was not a later addition but part of the original design. The Shriners often included commercial space in their buildings to help pay for the building and their other charitable projects.


The Embarcadero

 Posted by on July 15, 2011
Jul 152011
 
 Bronze Horse” by Marino Marini.  The fountain behind it is by Robert Woodward.
Real estate development projects in San Francisco are required to develop public spaces in order to obtain project approval. A good example of this is at the One Maritime Plaza building, located at Battery and Clay Streets, near the Embarcadero Center office buildings.
The office building was built in 1964 for Alcoa Corporation. This building was the first to use the seismic X-bracing as part of its structural aesthetic.  The formal plan for the garden squares on top of the garages was intended to create the effect of an outdoor sculpture museum.  The Landscape Architect was Sasaki Walker Associates. And the architect of the Tower was Skidmore, Owings and Merrill.
This is “Limits of Horizon” by Jan Peter Stern. I love how the plants have grown to soften this piece. In the photo it is lost to the surrounding buildings, and even in situ it is very ethereal.
“Icosaspirale” by Charles Perry
There are several more pieces on this garage rooftop. If you are in the area, check them out. It is really never crowded and it is a wonderful escape from the city.

Windows into the Tenderloin

 Posted by on July 14, 2011
Jul 142011
 
Windows into The Tenderloin – San Francisco
Mona Caron
Wandering the Tenderloin area of San Francisco you will come upon this mural on the corner of Jones and Golden Gate by Swiss born, San Francisco based, artist Mona Caron.
The project was spearheaded by the North of Market/Tenderloin Community Benefit District. The design was inspired by research and meetings with neighborhood residents, communities and organizations over the summer and fall of ’08. The mural was painted in ’09, and dedicated in March 2010.
Standing on Golden Gate Avenue, this part of the mural shows a view looking North from Market and Jones Streets. This is one of the entry points to San Francisco’s Tenderloin district, and it is the location of the mural itself.  It is sort of a documentary, showing how the artist found the area while she was working on the project. The ghost-like buildings that rise up into the sky represent the “ghosts of the past”, and each shows a building or a thing that actually used to exist in the location it is drifting from. Starting with the first one on the left, that was the Panorama, a 19th century place of Entertainment.  Apparently, there were several in the neighborhood, they consisted of round or dodecagonal buildings that housed 360 degree murals that people paid to view.  The large ghost in the right hand panel is the Paramount theater, an art deco building that was torn down in 1965.
This is a nod to the southeast Asian community of the Tenderloin.
On the Jones side of the building, the mural was painted right to left, so I will show the panels in that order.
This is another “ghost”.  The reference is to the Black Hawk Jazz Club that was at the corner of Turk and Hyde Streets from 1946 to 1963, it has its own absolutely amazing history, with all the greats having played there at one time or another.
The wisp of smoke is coming from a saxaphonist,  it ends up becoming the “ghost” hawk.
This parking lot still exists, and the painted sign on the brick wall is one of my favorites.  It belonged to the Hollywood Billiards parlor.  The tag in the far right hand corner is also, still on that building.
The front of that brick building now is covered with the Fear Head Mural.
The actual Hollywood Billiards Mural
This is the fantasy panel.  It is an exact copy of the one next to it, only this time, what the artists and locals would like it to look like.  Apparently, the artist was often asked why she was painting the same thing twice, and she told them the idea behind it and asked them what they would like it to be, she incorporated these ideas into this panel.
This is a garden.  The “seeds” are small tiles, painted by children at the Boys and Girls Club across the street.
It is difficult to photograph in places like this, the amount of people walking by coupled with the enormous amount of cars that go through that intersection all make it hard to do this piece of work justice. The details are just unbelievable, and the work is truly some of the very best.  I encourage you to visit Mona Caron’s website.  There you will find very, very close up photos, as well as some much better overall shots.  Also, take the time to go through the panels, she gives such a wonderful history of the Tenderloin.

The Tenderloin National Forest

 Posted by on July 13, 2011
Jul 132011
 
Still in the “Tenderloin National Forest”.  The Alley is so narrow that getting the larger murals is pretty difficult, so I apologize for the quality of many of these, they just had to be taken on an angle to get them all into the frame.
There is so little information available about the artists that did the murals, many of them are attributed to the “Trust your Struggle” collective.  I wish I could bring you more information, but enjoy the murals.
This one is titled “Bounce”
This reads “Our Lady of the Alley” Why do I know there is a wonderful story there somewhere.
“Power is in the face of the people”
this mural was here before the project began, it is by world famous muralist Brett Cook Dizney.

The Tenderloin National Forest

 Posted by on July 12, 2011
Jul 122011
 
Steel Gate by Kevin Leeper
I stopped short when I saw this beautiful gate. It is the entry to Cohen Alley off Leavenworth, near Eddy.  This is the Tenderloin, an area of town that starts many a conversation.    It has a fascinating history,  if you are interested, head over to wikipedia.  I was amazed at the things I learned about this area.
What most people think about the Tenderloin is high crime, but at the same time the high concentration of apartment buildings in the Tenderloin gives it the densest population (people per square mile) in the city, and also the highest proportion of families and children.
It is also one of the poorest, with a median family income of around $20K, a figure that is less half the overall city average. The area has a large number of immigrants from Asia, Southeast Asia and Latin America, and the 2004 demographic summary stated that the Tenderloin is home to the city’s entire Cambodian population.”

Kevin Leeper is a San Francisco Art Institute graduate and part time teacher at Diablo Valley College. He designed and fabricated the gate in 1993 in response to the local residents wish to have a more secure area at night.  What this door opens onto is “The Tenderloin National Forest”.  In 1989 a group of artists formed the nonprofit Luggage Store Gallery. The artists annexed the 25 by 136 foot alley and began slowly transforming it. The idea to build a forest was sparked when the group covered the area with rolls of sod as part of one of its many public events. The forest consists of cherry, cypress and Japanese maple trees plus a pair of redwoods, the tallest of which is four stories high. Edible plants and herbs grow in raised boxes, and aloe, cactus, ginkgo and ferns are scattered throughout.

I was unable to find the artist that did this mural.
The site is now officially sanctioned by the city, which charges the gallery a symbolic annual rent of $1. It is left open for visitors daily between roughly noon and 5 p.m.
 
These “Guardians” are by Johanna Poethig.  We have seen her work in Tutubi Plaza
 
This is the bottom half of Woon Socket.  The top half can be seen over the fence in the first photograph.  This is by Ricardo Richey and Andrew Schoultz.
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These amazing mosaics are entitled cultural geometry by Rigo 23 a Portuguese muralist, painter, and political artist.
I borrowed this from the San Francisco Chronicle, I just really needed you to see the entire mosaic. This was obviously taken during the installation, the greenery is so much more lush and the trees so much bigger, you would not get this shot today.



SOMA – Califor’ya

 Posted by on July 11, 2011
Jul 112011
 
SOMA – San Francisco

This mural is on a building at the corner of 7th and Folsom Streets, (It is on the 7th Street side) in the South of Market area of San Francisco.

It was done by 1:AM short for First Amendment, a gallery at 1000 Howard Street in San Francisco.

According to 1:AM they are “a gallery that stands behind the freedom of speech.  We strive to showcase, teach, and inspire the public on street and urban art through our exhibitions, education, and street productions…  With the gallery, classes, and a veteran mural production team, 1:AM has become a pillar in San Francisco street art culture. ”

I contacted 1:AM to see what the mural was all about and this is what one of the artists told me:

“My name is Robert and I’m one of the artist involved with the mural. We really appreciate the communities interest and curiosity about the mural. We painted this mural more for the public in that area, seeing as how that particular wall is often plagued with graffiti. The theme of the murals we usually paint have to do with the community and the surrounding area. For example, this mural is down the street from court and gets a lot of foot traffic from people either going or coming from court. It’s intended to be a positive and uplifting work of art, for people who usually would be stressed out from either work or just having a bad day, thus the vibrant and exciting colors used along with the playful phrase, ‘cus after all “That’s Califor’ya!” ”

UPDATE 4/2013   There was a slight mishap with a mistaken painting over of this mural.  It is back with a few minor changes – here is the new view.

Califor'ya 1AM

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Califor'ya

Embarcadero Center –

 Posted by on July 9, 2011
Jul 092011
 
More on the Embarcadero Center, San Francisco.

Walk inside the Hyatt Regency adjacent to Embarcadero Center One, ride the escalator up and, behold,  Charles O. Perry’s “Eclipse”, a 40-foot high geodesic sphere consisting of 1,400 pieces of curved metal tubing joined together in pentagons and supported by three massive steel legs.

Continue out onto Justin Herman Plaza.   Justin Herman was the Executive Director of the Redevelopment Agency.  According to SPUR (San Francisco Planning and Urban Research) “Justin Herman was responsible for guiding the Agency during its early years. As Executive Director of the Agency from 1960 until 1971, Herman oversaw the construction of a number of schools, playgrounds, churches and low-income apartments. He was the architect of much of the changing face of San Francisco at that time. But for all of the benevolence he bestowed, “redevelopment” remained highly controversial. Much of the reason lies in the fact that urban policy in the 1950’s through the 1970’s was distributed in a top-down fashion. It was formulated and implemented by “experts” who knew what was “best” for cities and communities – even in cases where the cure might seem worse than the problem. This professional detachment was to be incendiary when applied to the simmering unease that existed in the many communities of color in San Francisco at that time.”

The Plaza is dominated by the Vaillancourt Fountain.  Near the ground floor restaurants between the Hyatt Regency and Embarcadero One is this wonderful sculpture. Jean Dubuffet’s La Chiffonniere, a stainless steel structure with black epoxy that represents a cartoon-like ragged woman.   Walking around this gem evokes different pictures with every angle.

*Behind the fountain on Market Street you will bump into these two fellas.  “Yin and Yang” by Robert Arneson they were originally commissioned by the University of California at Davis where Arneson taught until 1991 (he died in 1992).

Robert Arneson gained notoriety as an artist in the 1960’s when he became associated with the Bay Area’s funk art movement. At a time when ceramics were relegated to “craft”, his use of clay in irreverent, unorthodox ways challenged the art world’s conceptions of what was considered fine art. His offbeat sense of humor created a firestorm with his portrayal of the murdered mayor, George Moscone.

It is one of the most notorious conflicts between an artist and city politics, the bust was ultimately rejected by the Arts Commission for its inclusion of references to Moscone’s assassination and the subsequent trial of Dan White. Currently the bust is in a private collection.

As a professor at UC Davis, Arneson was an easily accessible member of the community, many people I have known through the years had the pleasure of taking classes from him, and walked away feeling they had made a friend not just taken an art class.

The Arneson pieces were part of the 2006-2007 SFAC budget, they were purchased for $225,000.

 

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